Turkmenistan infos from another traveller

I received a nice email from Steven, a traveller who has lived for quite a while in Turkmenistan. I am reporting it here with his permission

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Hello Lorenzo,

Thanks for your response and letting me know about your future pictures.  

To be honest, I'm very interested in how you will be traveling through Turkmenistan.  I thought about planning a trip a few years ago, but tourist visas are still so restricted (I was told that I could only go to certain areas, such as Ashgabat, and that I would have to be accompanied by a policeman or FSB agent during my entire trip) that I decided not to do it. Do you already have your visas?  Are you familiar with the travel restrictions, especially to border towns and other village-like locations? Have you found a way to travel freely in the country?

I lived in Dashaouz, now called Dashoguz, and visited Kunyar Urgence two times I think.  It's an extremely interesting place!  I'm sure that a lot of things have changed, but I have a feeling that relates only to the development of monuments, fountains, and other public spaces.  In other words, life there is the same if not worse.  In Dashogus there was a Turkish restaurant across the street from the post office, which is one of the safer places to eat albeit a little more expensive than the Turkmen restaurants. If you're looking for lodging, I would also recommend the Turkish hotel (it's one of only two hotels in the city) which, once again, is definitely more expensive but it's also nicer, i.e. it has water. Speaking of water, be careful of the water in Dashogus - it's downright dangerous (parasites), being located within the Aral Sea disaster zone.  Use a distiller if you can. 

How will you be traveling between Ashgabat and Dashoguz? Will you be taking the road running through the desert?  I have never that, but I hear it's quite a trip; about 10 hours by bus.  If I ever go back there I will definitely take this route because I imagine it's a great adventure.  There is an overnight train, and of course you could fly but then you would definitely pay American prices, and that's probably not worth it. When in Ashgabat I would definitely recommend going to the Talcouchka Bazaar.  It's a huge bazaar known throughout Central Asia just outside of the city (many buses go there everyday so just ask someone about it - do you guys speak Russian by the way?).  You can buy just about everything there, and the confluence of various peoples is also wonderful to take in.  If you're looking for handmade carpets that's the place to go for sure. Don't forget that you must register them with the appropriate ministry (Ministry Of National Treasures, or something like that, perhaps?), and unless you plan on carrying it with you, ship it via UPS.  There was one UPS office in Ashgabat when I was there.  There is a place in the city known as the Carpet Factory, and they produce all of the carpets for international trade, but I think the bazaar is better because you can find homemade carpets, i.e. carpets made by traditional families, and you can also find some more unique and personal designs.  However, the carpet factory is definitely an interesting place to tour, as you can watch the women making the carpets.

Turkmens are not too crazy about pictures, but if you befriended them first then they might be accommodating.

Well, I wish you good luck, and I hope I have given you some good information (but I get the feeling that as experienced travelers you might be familiar with most of this already). 

Be well,

Steven

src4768@gmail.com